lightbulb

When I'm Right, I'm Right.

Well friends, it's happened again. I cannot seem to convince anyone about anything until I show them the proof. Well here is it, the truth about those spectacular energy saving light bulbs that are electrically noisy as hell.

I got into an argument with another ham radio operator about the source of the electrical noise when the light is on. His claim was it was the ion charge exchange process in the bulb causes the noise. My speculation was an electronic chopper high voltage supply in the base. He dismissed my claim because a high voltage power supply could not fit in the base. Well, guess what?

The type of analysis was destructive, only because the light quit working, probably because of component failure and nothing to do with the actual florescent element.

Here is the hapless light bulb before the analysis began.

This falls under the "Don't try this at home, kids" theme.

As the base began to crack under pressure, gee whiz, looky what we have here, a circuit board. Fancy that.

Further analysis reveals the (electrically) dirty little secret.

I don't need to show you any more, you get the picture. The ham operator knows who he is. I won't further embarrass him. He probably will never speak to me again.

Oh what the heck, I wanna rub it in.

HERE IS THE SOURCE OF THE NOISE!!!

Electronic switching supplies are inherently noisy. You can find them anywhere, here in these light bulbs, dimmer controls, light sensor (for outside lights; coach lights on the house), and even low profile light units that fit under kitchen cabinets (they have a one inch clearance).

And now since I have shown you this, here is something else to think about.

GE SoftWhite 100, the verbiage on the package reads as follows:

["This product complies with Part 18 of the FCC rules, but may cause interference to radios, televisions, wireless telephones, and remote controls. Avoid placing this product near these devices. If interference occurs, move product away from the device or plug either into a different outlet. Do not install this product near marine safety equipment or critical navigation or communication equipment operating between 0.45-30MHz."]

Also, this product notifies you that it contains MERCURY and should be dispose of in accordance with local disposal laws. It recommends seeing web page:

http://www.lamprecycle.org/

The manufacturer obviously knows there is an electrical noise problem with this product and tells you so, but also says that it is in compliance with the FCC Rules, therefore use this product at your own (electrical) risk.

The process of lighting within the bulb (ion charge exchange) probably contributes minimal noise to the radio spectrum. The big noise contributor is in the base of the lamp. It is a chopper HV power supply which has minimal noise suppression. This kind of chopper noise is CONDUCTED on the wires throughout the house, a great antenna system.

Increased noise suppression in the socket or base of the lamp may help, but by-and-large chopper power supplies create noises on a broad spectrum because the devices switch so fast they shock excite resonant wires. A line filter placed as close to the product as possible could help. However, if your neighbors decide to use these devices in their home, you will have little choice but to endure the noises generated by this product.

Here is another example of the FCC being bought out by big business. BPL isn't dead yet either, stay tuned folks, if you can hear through the noise...

de WA9WJB/Duke 4/7/07

Addendum 4/9/07

I forgot to mention that computers, monitors, and some TV sets also have chopper power supplies, but later models are shielded and filtered much better than early models. I have old Relysis and Sanyo monitors that just howl across the 80 meter band when they on.

Here is the (low profile) cabinet lights (mentioned earlier) that I installed under the kitchen cabinets. They are one inch high, so they fit perfectly under the cabinets. I installed 4 sets. They have unfiltered chopper power supplies that deliver 25 Volts to the incandescent bulbs.

When these lights are on, 160 meters is totally unusable. It is simpler to turn the lights off than deal with filters, so you can guess what I opt to do.

Duke

Addendum 4/11/07

I must respond to those that say they hear nothing with one or two bulbs. Different manufacturers make the same types of bulbs. Some are not too bad, however in aggregate, they will elevate your noise levels. It just has to happen, more bulbs, more noise. I have bulbs six in regular use. I notice the noise. I demonstrated to my fellow ham WA9WBV the noise after I turned on 5 bulbs in the same room.

The label on the packaging admits to the noise; I'm not imagining this stuff; it's here, it's real, and take this info for future reference. Don’t shoot the messenger, it's not my fault.

There are steps you can take to minimize the noise, from filtering to isolation. Filtering the source can usually produce good results, but if you cannot (as in the case of neighbors using such devices) the noise will be there. As far as isolation, outside antennas that are placed far away from the noise source will also deliver good results. But apartment dweller hams without outside antennas and apartment SWL's are screwed if their neighbors have these bulbs. They will only be able to enjoy their hobby after everybody else goes to bed. Been there, done that.

My 160 meter noise problem was so bad (20/S9) that I made an outside active antenna for receiving only. It was a loopstick type which was directional. I placed the active antenna about 75 feet from the house and oriented the loopstick antenna for the best null on the noises. It helped me a lot, but not everyone has that option.

These bulbs and other switching (chopper) devices will become more prevalent in the years to come. You will be dealing with it someday.

Below are pictures of the remote active antenna I built.

The above picture was in development stages.

Here is the final resting place of the active antenna, sitting at the base of the tree in the backyard. 9 Volt DC power is fed on the same coax cable. The RF return signals ride on the DC and are isolated with chokes. The transmit antenna is a vertical, sitting closer to the house (for support).

Best regards,

Duke

Addendum 5/16/07

Vindicated! To all of the courteous Keyboard Kritics who have disagreed with me about this web page, I feel vindicated today after reading the prestigious QST magazine, page 21 of June 2007.

In summary, all of the things I said above were relevant, timely, and true. Gene Preston K5GP was very lucky he had a very cooperative neighbor. Some people won't give you the time of day.

I don't feel the need to update this page further. If you disagree with what has been previously stated, my condolences.

Get on the radio and have fun with this great hobby!!

73, de WA9WJB/Duke 5/16/07

NOT SO FAST…

Addendum 8/18/2007

I thought I was done with this subject, but just when you thought it was safe to turn ON the lights, THIS HAPPENS.

This evening, my wife came to me to say that the kitchen light was making frying, sizzling, popping noises, with small wisps of smoke, and it smells bad. She had the presence of mind to turn it off immediately. When I got there, it did smell like hot plastic and that familiar electronic odor of burning parts.

The base was hot as hell, and as you can see from the picture, this could have been a really bad situation had nobody been present when this occurred. I will leave the rest to your imagination.

I will not scream that all these lights are dangerous, but here is one instance where things could have gone terribly wrong. I haven't performed an autopsy on this bulb, but I'll be willing to bet (if there is a fuse in this Lightwiz model), that the fuse did not blow, thus not protecting the user from a potential disaster.

How was this bulb used? It was used in a conventional socket, with a conventional ON/OFF switch, positioned with the bulb part on the top (not inverted), with a conventional ugly lamp shade with plenty of spacing for heat to rise. This bulb was in use for about 8 months before it failed. So much for a 5 year warrantee.

This unit was made in China. It did not have lead paint on it and the children are safe from that danger. But users should be aware that these bulbs could have other risks. If this should ever happen to me again, guess where the rest of the bulbs I own will end up?

de WA9WJB/Duke - 8/18/07

		When I'm Right, I'm Right.
		Well friends, it's happened again. I cannot seem to convince anyone about anything until I show them the proof. Well here is it, the truth about those spectacular energy saving light bulbs that are electrically noisy as hell. I got into an argument with another ham radio operator about the source of the electrical noise when the light is on. His claim was it was the ion charge exchange process in the bulb causes the noise. My speculation was an electronic chopper high voltage supply in the base. He dismissed my claim because a high voltage power supply could not fit in the base. Well, guess what? The type of analysis was destructive, only because the light quit working, probably because of component failure and nothing to do with the actual florescent element.

		Here is the hapless light bulb before the analysis began.

		This falls under the "Don't try this at home, kids" theme.

		As the base began to crack under pressure, gee whiz, looky what we have here, a circuit board. Fancy that.

		Further analysis reveals the (electrically) dirty little secret.

		I don't need to show you any more, you get the picture. The ham operator knows who he is. I won't further embarrass him. He probably will never speak to me again.

		Oh what the heck, I wanna rub it in.

		HERE IS THE SOURCE OF THE NOISE!!! Electronic switching supplies are inherently noisy. You can find them anywhere, here in these light bulbs, dimmer controls, light sensor (for outside lights; coach lights on the house), and even low profile light units that fit under kitchen cabinets (they have a one inch clearance). And now since I have shown you this, here is something else to think about.
		GE SoftWhite 100, the verbiage on the package reads as follows: ["This product complies with Part 18 of the FCC rules, but may cause interference to radios, televisions, wireless telephones, and remote controls. Avoid placing this product near these devices. If interference occurs, move product away from the device or plug either into a different outlet. Do not install this product near marine safety equipment or critical navigation or communication equipment operating between 0.45-30MHz."] Also, this product notifies you that it contains MERCURY and should be dispose of in accordance with local disposal laws. It recommends seeing web page:
		http://www.lamprecycle.org/
		The manufacturer obviously knows there is an electrical noise problem with this product and tells you so, but also says that it is in compliance with the FCC Rules, therefore use this product at your own (electrical) risk. The process of lighting within the bulb (ion charge exchange) probably contributes minimal noise to the radio spectrum. The big noise contributor is in the base of the lamp. It is a chopper HV power supply which has minimal noise suppression. This kind of chopper noise is CONDUCTED on the wires throughout the house, a great antenna system.
		Increased noise suppression in the socket or base of the lamp may help, but by-and-large chopper power supplies create noises on a broad spectrum because the devices switch so fast they shock excite resonant wires. A line filter placed as close to the product as possible could help. However, if your neighbors decide to use these devices in their home, you will have little choice but to endure the noises generated by this product. Here is another example of the FCC being bought out by big business. BPL isn't dead yet either, stay tuned folks, if you can hear through the noise... de WA9WJB/Duke 4/7/07
		Addendum 4/9/07 I forgot to mention that computers, monitors, and some TV sets also have chopper power supplies, but later models are shielded and filtered much better than early models. I have old Relysis and Sanyo monitors that just howl across the 80 meter band when they on.

		Here is the (low profile) cabinet lights (mentioned earlier) that I installed under the kitchen cabinets. They are one inch high, so they fit perfectly under the cabinets. I installed 4 sets. They have unfiltered chopper power supplies that deliver 25 Volts to the incandescent bulbs. When these lights are on, 160 meters is totally unusable. It is simpler to turn the lights off than deal with filters, so you can guess what I opt to do. Duke

		Addendum 4/11/07 I must respond to those that say they hear nothing with one or two bulbs. Different manufacturers make the same types of bulbs. Some are not too bad, however in aggregate, they will elevate your noise levels. It just has to happen, more bulbs, more noise. I have bulbs six in regular use. I notice the noise. I demonstrated to my fellow ham WA9WBV the noise after I turned on 5 bulbs in the same room. The label on the packaging admits to the noise; I'm not imagining this stuff; it's here, it's real, and take this info for future reference. Don’t shoot the messenger, it's not my fault. There are steps you can take to minimize the noise, from filtering to isolation. Filtering the source can usually produce good results, but if you cannot (as in the case of neighbors using such devices) the noise will be there. As far as isolation, outside antennas that are placed far away from the noise source will also deliver good results. But apartment dweller hams without outside antennas and apartment SWL's are screwed if their neighbors have these bulbs. They will only be able to enjoy their hobby after everybody else goes to bed. Been there, done that.
		My 160 meter noise problem was so bad (20/S9) that I made an outside active antenna for receiving only. It was a loopstick type which was directional. I placed the active antenna about 75 feet from the house and oriented the loopstick antenna for the best null on the noises. It helped me a lot, but not everyone has that option. These bulbs and other switching (chopper) devices will become more prevalent in the years to come. You will be dealing with it someday.
		Below are pictures of the remote active antenna I built.

		The above picture was in development stages.


		Here is the final resting place of the active antenna, sitting at the base of the tree in the backyard. 9 Volt DC power is fed on the same coax cable. The RF return signals ride on the DC and are isolated with chokes. The transmit antenna is a vertical, sitting closer to the house (for support). Best regards, Duke
		Addendum 5/16/07 Vindicated! To all of the courteous Keyboard Kritics who have disagreed with me about this web page, I feel *vindicated* today after reading the prestigious QST magazine, page 21 of June 2007. In summary, all of the things I said above were relevant, timely, and true. Gene Preston K5GP was very lucky he had a very cooperative neighbor. Some people won't give you the time of day. I don't feel the need to update this page further. If you disagree with what has been previously stated, my condolences. Get on the radio and have fun with this great hobby!! 73, de WA9WJB/Duke 5/16/07
	NOT SO FAST…
		Addendum 8/18/2007 I thought I was done with this subject, but just when you thought it was safe to turn ON the lights, THIS HAPPENS.

		This evening, my wife came to me to say that the kitchen light was making frying, sizzling, popping noises, with small wisps of smoke, and it smells bad. She had the presence of mind to turn it off immediately. When I got there, it did smell like hot plastic and that familiar electronic odor of burning parts. The base was hot as hell, and as you can see from the picture, this could have been a really bad situation had nobody been present when this occurred. I will leave the rest to your imagination. I will not scream that all these lights are dangerous, but here is one instance where things could have gone terribly wrong. I haven't performed an autopsy on this bulb, but I'll be willing to bet (if there is a fuse in this Lightwiz model), that the fuse did not blow, thus not protecting the user from a potential disaster. How was this bulb used? It was used in a conventional socket, with a conventional ON/OFF switch, positioned with the bulb part on the top (not inverted), with a conventional ugly lamp shade with plenty of spacing for heat to rise. This bulb was in use for about 8 months before it failed. So much for a 5 year warrantee. This unit was made in China. It did not have lead paint on it and the children are safe from that danger. But users should be aware that these bulbs could have other risks. If this should ever happen to me again, guess where the rest of the bulbs I own will end up? de WA9WJB/Duke - 8/18/07